Exploring the Oltrarno's Pitti Palace, Lush Gardens and Charming Streets
Cross the Arno River on the Ponte Vecchio and step into the Oltrarno — Florence's quieter, artisan side that most visitors miss. This neighborhood rewards slow exploration: two stunning churches hide world-class art behind modest facades, Via Maggio's Renaissance palazzos line a street free of queues, and the grand Pitti Palace anchors it all with the lush Boboli Gardens stretching behind it. Bring the Red Map Florence to make the most of every turn.
FOUR REASONS TO CROSS THE ARNO
BASILICA DI SANTO SPIRITO
Designed by Brunelleschi — the same architect behind Florence's iconic Duomo — the 15th-century Basilica di Santo Spirito is a masterpiece of Renaissance proportion. Step inside to find paintings by Filippino Lippi, Ghirlandaio, Sansovino and Rosselli, all without the museum crowds. The church's famously simple facade gives nothing away — which makes the interior all the more rewarding.
CHIESA DI SANTA MARIA DEL CARMINE
Santa Maria del Carmine is a Baroque and Rococo church whose plain exterior hides one of Florence's greatest treasures: the Capella Brancacci. Inside, Masaccio's vivid 15th-century frescos are considered among the founding works of Renaissance painting. Reserve ahead for direct access to the chapel — or catch a glimpse from the nave for free.
VIA MAGGIO
No tickets, no queues — Via Maggio is one of Florence's most elegant streets and one of its best-kept secrets. A quiet procession of 15th and 16th-century merchant palazzos lines the street, with antique shops and art galleries tucked between the facades. Just stroll and take it all in.
PALAZZO PITTI AND THE BOBOLI GARDENS
The Pitti Palace was built for a rival family of the ruling Medici — but in the 1550s, the Pittis ran into financial trouble, and the Medici bought the unfinished palace. Today this vast Renaissance residence houses one of Italy's finest art collections, its rooms stacked floor to ceiling with old masters. The Galleria Palatina on the first floor are ornate reception rooms, and a spectacle in and of themselves — with the world's largest collection of works by Raphael.
Behind the palace, the tiered Boboli Gardens spill down the hillside with a series of surprises — an amphitheater, a grotto, botanical gardens, and the shaded tunnel-like paths of branched archways known as "Cerchiate." Be sure to give yourself ample time to relax and stay in these gorgeous gardens.
Plan your Oltrarno walk with the Red Map Florence
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